Planning for the Rough-In

In this chapter, we're going to jump ahead in the construction process and focus on the installation or "rough-in" of your electrical system. Why? Because the system is based on a design that you'll need to understand long before the work begins.

This chapter will give you a solid foundation for thinking through your options in the electrical design so that the rough-in will go smoothly and cost-effectively.

Your plumbing and electrical work will happen in two phases:

1. Rough-in: The installation of the wires and pipes across the house that handle electricity and water.
2. Finish: Installing fixtures, switches, appliances, and other features that make the systems work for the homeowner.

Our focus now is the rough-in phase. Overall, this phase is focused on the addition of infrastructure, like wires and conduits, that will soon be hidden behind interior walls. I’ve also included information on fixtures because your decisions on fixtures will be important in designing the infrastructure. 

This work ensures that when the house's interior becomes more complete, the appropriate equipment is in place and ready for being finished. 

Electrical Rough-In

What to Expect:

As we saw in the chapter on systems, the electrical work is driven by the lighting and electrical plan, which was likely designed by you and your architect. It’s important to keep in mind that the plan is flexible and what matters most is what actually gets built. This is one of your last opportunities to make changes before they become much more expensive.

Before the electrical work begins, you’ll walk through the house with the electrician. Initially, this might be the lead electrician who is responsible for the project. This person will need to have an overall understanding of what needs to be done along with understanding your intentions. This person may not perform the actual work, so it may be helpful to have the on-site electrician(s) present for these discussions. If you have any questions or concerns, this initial meeting is a great time to voice them. 

The majority of the electrical rough-in work is standard and won’t require your input. The workers will spend time cutting holes in the structure of your house and running wires through them. These are the wires that lead from the breaker box to the switches and receptacles you’ll use every day.  

As we discussed in the chapter on plans, it’s important for you to have a good handle on the design of the lights and which switches control them. This relates to the livability of your home, as you’ll use the switches often, and getting them right will help your home be easier to use. 

A simple example is a bathroom that has two circuits: a light in the shower and lights over the sink. These lights can be controlled independently with two switches by the door. The electrician will want to verify which switch, left or right, controls which lights.

This is true for most of the rooms in your home. If you are not involved, the switches will be built just as they are on the lighting and electrical plans.  If you have a preference, speak up.

The number of lights that can be controlled with a switch varies depending on the switch and type of light. Your electrician will be aware of these limitations.

Switch and Outlet Placement

Before the work begins, the electricians will make marks on the wood framing of your home. This is your first opportunity to evaluate the locations of switches, outlets, and light fixtures. The symbols they use match the symbols on the lighting plan.

Below you can see the dollar signs with a "3" by them. This indicates five three-way switches on one side and four on the other. If you see something out of place, ask about it.

Your electrician may ask about the height of your outlets from the floor. The standard is 8-12 inches. The exception to this rule is cases where accessibility is an issue. For example, if someone in the home uses a wheelchair or has mobility issues, it can be helpful to have outlets higher on the wall. 

Most switches are placed about 48" from the floor and are usually attached to a nearby wall stud. To get a feel for the placement, walk into the room and reach for the switch. If it doesn't feel natural, ask the team to move it to a more natural location.

The placement of switches and outlets can be deceiving when the house's walls and trim are not in place. When considering placement, remember that the switches and outlets will have covers and nearby features like windows and doors may have trim.

3-way and 4-way Switches

There are often situations where lights need to be controlled from more than one location. Imagine walking into a bedroom and turning on the ceiling lights as you enter. Then, you go to bed and realize the ceiling lights are on and you want to turn them off without getting up. This is accomplished with three-way switches that work together. Unlike standard switches, which have defined on/off positions, three-way switches depend on the status of other switches. In the bedroom example, a three-way switch by the bed can be used to turn the ceiling lights off. 

These can also work as a four-way switch. These types of switches can be helpful when there are multiple entries to a space or if the space is a pass-through. Be sure these switches and their circuits are outlined in the electrical plan.

Other Electrical Rough-In Considerations

Some of these ideas are covered more in other chapters, but I want to bring them together at this rough-in stage to be sure they're accounted for in the plan.

Conduits 

Once this phase is complete, much of the electrical work will be forever encased in the walls of your home. This makes it much more difficult and expensive to make changes in the future. One way to make your home more flexible is to install pipes in the walls or ceilings across the house.

These pipes, called “conduits”, are like tunnels that connect the rooms and floors and can make changes easier in the future. For example, your electrician may use a conduit to run the internet cable from outside the home to the location of the modem. Once it’s in place, the conduit creates a reliable and reusable path from one part of the house to another. 

The only affordable time to install conduits is during the electrical rough-in. Talk to your electrician about the potential to install them, and what locations make the most sense. Running the conduit is an affordable way to give your home the flexibility to adapt to new features and products over time. 

Solar Panels

Solar panels are a popular option that can often pay for themselves in a matter of a few years. If you plan to use solar panels or if you’re interested but not sure you can afford it, consider wiring your home for future installation. This involves deciding where the solar panels are likely to reside and running the appropriate electrical lines from that location to the breaker panel. With the lines in place, the installation of the panels will be easier and more economical.

Ask your builder about solar panel installers and have them provide a quote for the work. The installers will be able to help you understand the best location for the panels and what you can expect in your region. 

Home Battery Back-up

As battery technology has improved, it has become possible to have a battery attached to your home that serves as backup power and a way to use solar energy after the sun goes down. These systems are often panels that hang on the wall and connect to both the grid and your home. They can be programmed to power specific circuits in the home in the case of a power outage, like the refrigerator, water pumps, routers, heaters, etc. If this is something you can imagine using now or in the future, be sure they are on the electrical plan and the team knows about them.

Along with stand-alone batteries, an emerging option is the use of electric vehicles as backup power. Some electric vehicles can do “reverse flow” which means the battery in the vehicle can power other things, like a few circuits in a home. 

Electric/Hybrid Vehicle Charging

Electric cars require a 240-volt outlet, which is the same that runs your clothes dryer. If you have an electric or hybrid vehicle, you’ll need charging ports where you park them. Be sure they are on the electrical plan and the team knows about them.  

Backup Generator 

If you live in a rural area or a place with occasional power outages, you may consider having a built-in generator. These are usually powered by diesel or propane and can be set to turn on as soon as the power goes out, and power specific circuits and devices. These serve the same purpose as battery backup but can last as long as you can keep feeding them fuel. This kind of system must be planned, so be sure your team knows about the generator. Keep in mind that built-in generators are helpful but can be expensive to install and require some maintenance. 

Speaker Wire 

If you plan to have wired speakers throughout your house, the electrical rough-in is the time to make it happen. The wire is affordable and easy to install, so consider running it anywhere you might want speakers. Conduits can be a resource too. Keep in mind that many speaker systems now operate via wifi and don’t require speaker wire. You can simply plug a speaker into a wall outlet, connect it to wifi and control it with an app. 

Stubs

When electrical lines are run to the receptacles, they will be left rough and without a receptacle. These stubs should be capped so that they are not a live wire when the circuit is turned on at the electrical box. Double-check the caps, as a live wire is not a fun surprise when painting, etc.

Finding Light Fixtures and Switches

Your electrician may ask about the type of lights and switches you plan to use because electrical products may require specific wiring infrastructure. This may be the case for three-way switches, dimmers, LEDs fixtures, and more. It will be helpful to have a good idea of what you’d like to use so that you can be sure the house is wired for them. An example is switch boxes having a “neutral” connection, as some types of lights work best with these connections in place. 

Today, most light fixtures are LEDs (light-emitting diodes) because they last a very long time and are very efficient compared to incandescent bulbs. In fact, some building codes now require the use of high-efficiency lighting. 

Unfortunately for the homeowner, the world of lighting compatibility can seem confusing and cumbersome. This is especially true since LED technology is still developing alongside innovations in home automation. In my experience, there are a few things you can do to be prepared and informed.

Lighting Store

Visit your local lighting store and speak with a representative about what you need. They will be able to help you find products that fit your budget and requirements. Many consumers don't realize that what is on the showroom floor is just a fraction of what the store can order for you. There are typically many more models, colors and styles than what they can show in that space. They probably have catalogs, online and off, full of options. If they are unable to answer your questions, ask about contacting their salesperson for any brand that interests you. 

Home Show

Home shows can be a great way to learn about more brands or new types of products that you may not have heard about before. You may be able to review multiple products and ask questions of brand representatives.

Call the Manufacturer

Most reputable lighting manufacturers have phone numbers on their websites that connect to tech support or sales. In my experience, these people can be extremely helpful in answering questions about use, compatibility, etc.

Online Research

Use the internet to identify the exact product you’d like to use and print the “spec sheet” for the product. You can find the spec sheets on web pages that offer the product for sale. Do this for all the products you’d like to use and go through them with the electrician, who should be able to help you verify that the products will work for your needs and if not, what to consider. 

Ask a Friend

If you know someone who recently built or remodeled a home, ask them about their lighting decisions and experience with specific products. Visit the home and look at the fixtures and switches in person.

Recessed Light Fixtures

Your lighting plan will include icons for the various types of lighting you’d like in your home.

Recessed light fixtures are a popular option for primary lighting in new homes. The lights are installed or “recessed” into the ceiling, with the hardware out of sight. This creates a low-profile light that can easily fill a room when spread evenly. The lights come in a variety of shapes and colors. Here are a few LED can light options to consider.

Gimbals

Standard recessed lights only shine in one direction, usually straight down. By using a recessed light that’s on a “gimbal” the light can be pointed in other directions because the gimbal allows the lens of the light to pivot. This is a handy feature if you have a sloping ceiling, or would like to highlight or “wash” a wall with light.  

Spread

Recessed lights are directional and come in a variety of options that change the size of the lighted area or “spread”. A wide spread means the light covers more area and a narrow spread focuses light on a smaller area. 

Lens Depth

The visible part of recessed lights have two components: The trim and the lens. Many lights come in a variety of lens depths, which means how close the lens is to the edge of the trim. The lens is the brightest part of the light. If you want to make the lens less visible, you can purchase lights with greater depth. A deeper light may limit the spread.  

A growing number of manufacturers are offering recessed LED fixtures that have the light source built into the fixture. This means there is no removable bulb that can be changed. This is because LEDs can now last a lifetime. If a fixture stops working, it must be replaced in-full. Be sure to understand the warranty for your lights. 

LED Compatibility

LEDs are efficient and long-lived, but they do have some issues. One of the most common is visible flickering, which creates a strobe effect. This issue is usually caused by incompatibility between the dimmer and the light fixture. When choosing lights and dimmers, be sure to check their compatibility, which is usually available from the manufacturer's website.

Types of Light Fixtures

There is no shortage of lighting options and choosing light fixtures can be a bewildering experience. It helps to become familiar with the basic styles so that you can start to plan what will work best in every room.

Sconces 

A sconce is a light fixture that lives on a wall. Often sconces are used as accent lights that add personality and ambiance. They come in a wide variety of designs, from lights that illuminate a hallway to reading lights by the bed. Keep in mind that scones use wall space that could also be used for art or other purposes. Place them carefully.

Pendants 

Pendants hang from the ceiling and are most often used for task lighting, where light highlights a specific area, like a table or kitchen island. Another example of a pendant is a chandelier over a dining table, which creates a full light source, including a reflection on the ceiling. Like sconces, these lights come in a wide variety of options and must be placed carefully because they are practically permanent. 

Track, Tape, or Strip Lights 

The rise of LEDs has created a variety of lighting options that can be used to create continuous light across a long area, like a hallway, deck, or under a counter. LEDs now come in the form of a roll of tape in standard lengths of 16’. The tape is usually half-inch wide or less and can be cut to length, making it a simple way to add accent lights to your home.

Examples include using LED strip lights for ambient lighting. In this case, strips are installed under floating shelves and on top of cabinets in the kitchen.

Like all LEDs, these lights require a driver, which is a box that is usually hidden behind a wall. It’s a good idea to plan for the location of these drivers with your electrician. 

Damp/Wet Location

Some light fixtures are designed for locations with moisture. There are "damp location" fixtures, which are in proximity of wet areas, but shouldn't be doused by water, such as in a covered patio. There are also "wet location" fixtures that are meant to withstand water touching it, as in a shower or on an exterior wall. Building codes are likely to require the use of damp/wet location lights in their respective areas.

When choosing fixtures for damp and wet locations, be sure to verify that the fixture is rated for that area on its spec sheet.

Landscape 

Landscape lights are placed around your property for the purpose of aesthetics and safety. These might include path lights leading from the driveway to the front door, up lights that highlight trees, and deck lights that make the deck visible at night.

These lights are usually low voltage, meaning that they require less power than a standard light. Low voltage lights may require a transformer that converts the power to a voltage the lights can handle. Other landscape lights can be powered by small solar panels or use of a standard receptacle. 

Lamps

In the rough-in phase, it’s easy to forget that you will be adding furnishings to your home that bring it to life. These could include desk, floor, or table lamps, which add a nice balance of light in a room that only has recessed lights, for example. If you have plans for lamps, be sure they have receptacles nearby. Some lamps are now available with speakers that connect to wifi, USB plugs, and rechargeable batteries that make them portable. 

Motion Sensing Lights - Interior

It can be convenient to consider rooms where lights come on as soon as you enter and then turn off after a set amount of time, like 90 seconds. These lights can be built into a wall switch or be a small device that you plug into an outlet.

Useful places for motion-sensing lights include locations that people don't linger, like walk-in closets and pantries. What you want to avoid is having the light turn off while someone is present.

A location that may not be obvious is under benches, particularly in a mudroom or entry, where shoes are hidden underneath.

Motion Sensing Lights and Cameras - Exterior

Your home may also include exterior lights and cameras that come on when motion is detected. If this interests you, be sure that outlets are placed in the locations where you'd like the devices. Note that some cameras can use an Ethernet cable for power (Power Over Ethernet) and won't need a standard outlet.

Types of Switches and Dimmers

In the parlance of electricians, a “switch” is binary: on or off. A “dimmer” is a kind of switch that can be on, off, or any brightness in between. This is an important factor in maximizing efficiency and the feel of your home, especially in the short days of winter. A night of watching movies may use dim lights, while game night in the same room might need bright ones. For this reason, many homeowners are opting for dimmers instead of traditional switches. 

Switches 

A traditional switch is an affordable and stable option for any home. If there are rooms in your home that don’t need brightness control, like a laundry room, a switch may be a good option. These can usually be matched to dimmer switches so they look the same. 

You may be able to use bulbs that offer dimming control, without dimmer switches. This is usually accomplished with a bulb that connects to the home wifi and can be controlled with an app on your phone or another device. 

Dimmers 

Dimmers are a common choice for new homes and are most often used in shared or entertaining spaces. If you are using LEDs, be sure to choose dimmers that are compatible with your LED fixture/bulbs. As we discussed previously, it can be helpful to print the spec sheets for any dimmer you’d like to use and share them with the electrician before installation.

Dimmers can turn lights on or off and offer a choice of brightness. There are a variety of options, but many dimmers can be set so that the “on” position is a light that’s dimmed a specific percent. 

Two Types of Dimmers

• Normal - A normal dimmer is not connected to other dimmers or home wifi. They depend on a person to turn them on and off, or to change the dimmer setting. 
• Smart - A “smart” dimmer is connected to home wifi, or another wireless protocol and can usually be used in groups. These switches can be controlled manually or via an app on a computer or device.

Using Smart Dimmers

Many smart dimmers allow for lighting control and automation. A few examples:

• Sunrise/Sunset Schedule - Because most smart lighting systems are connected to the internet, they know the time of sunset and sunrise each day. The systems can be set to have the lights turn on before sunrise and then turn off an hour later. Or, turn on just as the sun is setting.
• Movie Time Scene - Lights on the system can usually be grouped into scenes. For example, a scene could be created to dim the lights when it's time to watch a movie.
• All Off Scene - If all of your lights are on the same system, you can easily set them to all turn off with the use of an app, a switch, or your voice.
• Voice Control - Most smart dimmer platforms now connect with voice assistants, like Alexa, Siri, or Google Home.

This option is the most expensive but offers an incredible amount of control that can translate into efficiency and a comfortable feel.

Easy Replacement

Keep in mind that switches and dimmers are not permanent and many can be replaced by the homeowner. As long as the wiring infrastructure supports what you need to do, the switches can change with your needs. You might consider using smart switches in areas where you entertain and other switches in bedrooms and bathrooms.

Less Conventional Options for Outlets

Until wireless electricity becomes a reality, we will still need to attach our devices to electrical outlets. In planning your home, take the time to consider where outlets would be useful and add them to the plan. I’ve provided a few examples below:

Floor Outlets

Now that many homes are adopting open floor plans, considerable time is spent in the middle of a room. For this reason, it may be useful to add outlets in those areas, which are recessed into the floor. This way, a computer or phone can be charged without stretching a cord to a wall. 

If you plan to have floor outlets, it's essential to plan the location carefully. First, they should be in a convenient place. Second, the location should be marked throughout the project. As layers of subfloor, radiant heat material, and finished floor are added, the location can be lost and wiring must be found again, as seen below.

Countertop Island Outlets

Another consideration is adding outlets to kitchen islands. If you plan to have an island, be sure the outlets are available so that you won’t have to stretch a cord across the kitchen to use a mixer, for example. There are also pop-up outlets that can be added to the surface of countertops for easy access. Plan ahead and be sure your countertop installer knows these outlets are part of the plan. 

Built-ins

Built-in furniture like cabinets and benches can take away space that might otherwise be used for an outlet. If you’re having custom cabinets or other furniture built, consider adding outlets inside cabinets. This can be helpful in charging devices where you store them.  

If you have selected appliances for your home, think beyond the kitchen and laundry room. You may need to account for outlets in unconventional locations. Examples are:

• Washlet or bidet that requires electricity behind the toilet
• Heated towel rack in the bathroom
• Electric shades for windows
• Cameras or motion sensors
• Holiday/bistro lights near the ceiling
• Fans/air conditioner/dehumidifier/heater
• Small chargeable items stored in closets
• Automatic pet door
• Outdoor cooking/grill area
• Garden
• Landscape lights
• Plan ahead. Double-check the plan. 
• Smart Outlets

Today it’s possible to install outlets that are controllable with an app. This means the power to the outlet can be managed remotely. For example, you could have a lamp plugged into a smart outlet and set to the “on” position. Instead of turning the lamp on each evening, you use an app to turn the outlet on and off based on your preferences or schedule. In many cases, these outlets can be programmed to work according to sunrise and sunset.

USB Outlets

Outlets are now available with a USB connection in addition to the normal power supply. This makes it easier to charge phones and other devices. You can now find outlets with normal USB connections or USB-C, which is a newer standard that can charge computers. 

Every detail of lighting won’t be required for the rough-in phase. However, it’s good to have a handle on the options and your likely direction in case the electrician needs to account for your needs in the infrastructure.

Considering the Exterior

In planning for electrical, it’s easy to be focused on the interior. But the exterior matters for aesthetics and safety. A well-lit home is beautiful and secure. 

Dark Sky

Before getting into the options, it’s a good idea to look into the dark sky movement. The idea of dark sky is reducing light pollution through thoughtful design. The non-profit Dark Sky Association (darksky.org) has a wealth of information about practical ways to reduce light pollution. Regarding outdoor home lighting, they recommend that exterior lights:

• Only be “on” when needed
• Only light the area that needs it
• Be no brighter than necessary
• Minimize blue light emissions
• Be fully shielded (pointing downward)

At the very least, you’ll want to have lights at the main entry of your home. However, with a little planning, you can use lighting to make your home look beautiful at night. 

A few options to consider:

Soffit Lights

Soffits are the material that protects the underside of your roof, where it hangs over your house. Adding recessed lighting to the soffits that point to the ground can create a soft light that illuminates the siding of your home and provides for path lighting.

Gooseneck Lights

Gooseneck lights are a type of classic light fixture that can work as a task light for an outdoor area by focusing light downward. This can be a nice choice when reducing the light that shines outward, such as near neighbors, might be desired.

Outlets near the Ceiling

String or bistro lights can add a nice feel to an outdoor space. By adding an outlet or two near the ceiling, you’ll have an easy option for adding the lights, holidays or not. These outlets are also useful for adding motion-sensing lights and cameras at a later date.

Doorbells and Sensors

Think of the small devices you might want to add to the exterior, like a doorbell, mini-weather station, sensors, or even an electronic bird feeder with squirrel deterrent. Be sure to at least add them or an outlet for them to the electrical plan so you have the option to install them later.

Outlets Away From the Home

If you have a garden area that is not right next to the house structure, consider running power to that area. This will involve digging a trench and adding an underground conduit that carries the electrical wires to the location. There is no better time to do this than during construction. 

Networking Rough-in

This phase is also when your ethernet lines will be installed along with the exterior connection from the ISP. Even if you are not using a network, you'll need to account for the location of your modem and router. Usually, the best locations are:

• Central: The hardware may work best in a central location that can serve the entire house.
• Accessible: Because you may have to reset the hardware from time to time, it's nice to have it in a location that's easy to access.
• Low Profile: Most people don't see internet hardware as a part of their decor. Consider to what extent the hardware will be visible to visitors, for example.
• Effective: Wifi signals can go through normal wood and drywall walls, but may have problems with other materials such as concrete, masonry, and metal walls.

Once you have a location specified, you'll need to think about how the internet line from outside the home reaches the location. Often the ISP will install the line to the home, but may not run it to a specific location. This can be easily accomplished with a conduit or hollow tube that can carry the line during the rough-in phase.

Below is a simple network connection box. The blue tube is a conduit that guides the connection from the ISP to the box, where it can be connected to the modem, router, and network.

If you have a large network, you may need to have the electricians install a networking box or rack that can accommodate your network devices.

Next, we'll look at the Smart Home.